Common Name: Ball Python

Scientific Name: Python regius

Native to: Central and Wetern Africa

Lifespan: 20-40 years in captivity

Size: 3-6 feet in length. Females get larger than males.

Above all, get to know your animal. Knowing your animal will help address many issues that may arise. Each snake has his/her own personality and it’s important for a keeper to observe and learn what are your snake’s habits, what humidity ranges, temperature ranges, substrates, seasonal substrate changes all help your snake thrive.

There is a plethora of information on the internet in blogspace, in FaceBook groups, and in online forums on ball python care. You will find that some of this information is contradictory. There is no one ultimate source of “the” correct information. The problem with some of these sources and many online communities is that they present their version of snake care as if it is the only way to approach snake husbandry. As a snake keeper, it is part of your responsibility to gather information from various sources and to apply what works for your snake. Ball Pythons are as different from each other as humans. What one may prefer, another may not. What works for one, may not for another. The feeding habits of one are not the feeding habits of another. This is where you have to be attentive to your snake. There are some basics that should be used as a foundation from which to start. Below is an outline of those basics and some notes on how you might adjust to find what works best for your snake.

Handling: Handle your snake routinely so your snake becomes familiar with human interaction. Get to know what signals your snake may give when he or she is not willing to be handled.

Enclosure: In the wild, ball pythons will live under tree stumps or under termite mounds in burrows. This means that they are ground snakes. They do not need to climb. This also means that they are comfortable in dark enclosed areas. Your ball python will need its own enclosure. Do not cohabitate ball pythons. Keep your baby ball python in an enclosure tub that is approximately 2 ft. X 1 ft. X 6 in or a tank that is approximately 2 ft X 1 ft X 1 ft. These are usually 15-20 gallon terrariums. As your ball python grows you can increase the tank size. An adult ball python will be comfortable in a tank that measures 1.5 ft x 3ft x 1ft. If you are using a rack system, adult ball pythons will be fine in a 1ft x 3 ft tub with 5-6 inch height. If you are using a glass tank, the ball python will need a lot of clutter to feel safe (multiple hides, artificial plants, etc..) Humidity will also need to be more closely monitored in a glass tank with a mesh style top. Remember, ball pythons are ground snakes. They naturally live in burrows under the ground. They do not need climbing things in their habitats. If your ball python is climbing, it is a sign that he/she may be stressed. It does not mean that they like the tree that you put there for them to climb.

Temperature and Humidity: Ball python’s are most comfortable in an environment that has a humidity around 60% and a temperature on the warm side around 88 degrees and on the cool side around 75 degrees. These are baseline temperatures and humidity. You will want to monitor both temperature and humidity while your new snake becomes acclimated.

Heat Source: Temperature should be monitored and your heat source should be on a thermostat with a sensor so that the enclosure does not overheat. Heat from underneath your enclosure is recommended for ball pythons (heat tape or heat panels, not heated rocks - heated rocks can’t be controlled and end up cooking snakes). Heat lamps on timers and basking lights are not needed. Balls are typically underground during the day so light is not really something they need. If you use an overhead heat source, a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) is recommended.

Hides: It is important to keep one hide if not two hides in the enclosure with your snake so they feel comfortable. It is recommended to place one hide on the cool side and one on the warmer side, so that your ball python can regulate its temperature. This will lead to a better feeding response from your snake as well. Hides are very important for ball pythons. In nature, they live in burrows under termite mounds or tree stumps. This is a dark, moist, warm environment. This will be where they feel the safest.

Substrate: Your new snake has been living on cypress mulch. This is a great substrate for maintaining humidity. It also gives the snake a surface to rub against. Be sure to use only natural mulch - not colored. Coconut chip mulch is also an excellent substrate. There are many brands of both of these types of mulch available at a wide variety of price ranges. During summer months in a humid area, you may decide to use a paper product such as newsprint or paper towels. If you use paper as a substrate, monitor the humidity closely. Do not use sand or cedar or pine mulch as they are harmful to your ball python. Again, watch and know your snake. He or she may need more or less mulch or coconut chips and an environment that is a little more humid if they are beginning a shed.

Water Dish: It is a necessity to have a water dish in your snake’s enclosure. You do not need a water dish that is big enough for them to soak their body in, as ball pythons do not swim. They just need to be able to drink from it. Make sure to change the water in your snake’s water dish as it can accumulate bacteria. Be sure to change the water right away if your snake defecates or urates in the water. They will do this from time to time. If you notice your ball python soaking in its water dish, check the snake very closely. You may have an issue with humidity or possibly a mite infestation.

Feeding: We feed our ball pythons weekly. That is to say that we offer them all a meal each 6-9 days. A good meal for your ball python is one that is approximately the width of their body. We feed our snakes live rodents at S&H Exotics, but it is more than possible to get your snake to eat a frozen thawed rodent. If your snake does not eat, do not panic. Ball pythons are known to be finicky eaters. Make sure their environment meets the needs of your snake and try again. There is much that is written about ball pythons and eating. Feeding is an area in which it is probably the most necessary to know your animal. You may find in some older sources that moving snakes to a different enclosure to feed is necessary. This was based on old assumptions and no evidence to support it has been collected from any scientific study. For ball pythons, removing them from their enclosure to feed them will more than likely stress the snake. In the wild, they are opportunistic feeders and ambush hunters. Keeping these two things in mind will help as you feed. Some will eat every week like clockwork; others, in exactly the same conditions, may refuse food. Do not assume that something is wrong if your snake misses a few meals. If their living conditions are as described above and there are no signs of issues like a respiratory infection (bubbles from the mouth and/or nose), and no sign of mites, then in all likelihood, the snake is simply not hungry. We have done extensive research in this area with veterinarians, long time keepers and breeders, professional keepers in zoos, and herpetologists. The only consensus besides monitoring mass and making sure that your snake does not start to lose a lot, is that each snake is an individual. For some, it seems to be normal for them to eat consistently for a while and then stop for a while and then start again. For others missing more than two weeks might be an alarm, while for still others, it may be normal to go months without accepting a meal. All of these things would be observed in the wild. There is not one simple answer for all ball pythons. The important thing here is to be patient. Offer each week. If one type of meal is not appealing, offer another. If you feed frozen thawed rats, offer a live rat. If you feed live rats, offer a live mouse. There are many other things that you might try, so many that it would require a separate sheet. Make sure your husbandry is en pointe (humidity, temperature, etc) and that your snake is not losing mass. In most situations, the snake will eat when he or she is hungry. Be patient and know your animal.

Contact us if you have any questions and we will be happy to help you out.

See our website Georgiareptileguys.com and follow us on facebook.

snakesandrats801@gmail.com

The thumbnail is not available but click on the "watch on YouTube" link and the video can be seen.